Day 39 - On the road again

Today started with a ridiculously early 0245 alarm call and is finishing with me sat in a very nice hotel room after three beers, a steak and a good evening spent with a good friend. 

It is however a hotel room with one of the most bizarre features I think I've seen - and I've been in more hotel rooms than I care to count in my my life. Just have a quick glance at the photo and see if you can work it out? Did you get it? No?

You can see the shower from the bed! Literally a clean view straight through the shower into the bathroom from the bedroom. Might have been pretty cool if I still had someone to share it with! As it is, it definitely goes onto my top 5 of odd things I've seen a bedroom (see if you can guess the other 4!).

It can get a bit tedious when you travel a lot, particular when it is short durations for work and you barely get your stuff out of your suitcase. But every now and then you see something funky like this and you realise that you haven't, in fact, seen it all! 

That's a good thing, keeping it fresh. Getting into too much of a routine (a bit is OK) isn't great, and it can often numb you a little bit to the little things. You miss them if you aren't looking. And sometimes you aren't looking because you've forgotten to pick your head up every now and then.

Anyway, it's been a long day. That big comfy bed is calling. And tomorrow is another day, hopefully with something new and exciting too.

Till tomorrow, Tom

Day 38 - Tips for Travellers

It's 2030 and my flight leaves Baton Rouge for Houston at approximately 0530 tomorrow morning. So already I'm at somewhere around 6 hours maximum sleep, if I go now. Right now. This second. So for that reason I am going to shameless reblog my second ever post - from October 26 2011! 

Back when this was a blog about me. When I wrote this I was yet to be married, yet to be divorced, yet to begin my career in any real sense. My daughter was only 3 and we had no idea our paths would cross. So much has changed, but I think this blog may still be relevant. It was called Travel Tips for the Jet Setters. Enjoy.

• Sometimes at security checks I have been asked to remove my belt and sometimes I haven't. Luck says that you will ONLY be asked to remove your belt if you have baggy jeans on which are relying 100% on said belt to keep them up.

• NEVER EVER EVER try to humourously engage immigration staff at US airports. Particularly when you have a UK passport although you were born in Germany (apparently that means you are probably a member of the Third Reich). Also don't ask the immigration staff  "what would you recommend?" when they ask you "what is your reason for entering the US?". In my defence it had been a 10 hour transatlantic flight sat between an asthmatic elephant and a screaming child.

• No matter how many times you've seen an episode of (for example) Family Guy, you WILL laugh like a tit at the really funny bit when watching it on a plane, resulting in (a) large numbers of people looking at you strangely (b) potential spillage of drink or food when you knee the tray table in your amusement.

• It ALWAYS rains upon arrival in Manchester, ignore whatever the captain says and keep your jacket with you at all times. On the off chance it isn't raining when you disembark, it will be when you finally leave the airport.

• If you can get them, the best economy class seats are generally at the front of the cabin sections by the emergency door. For extra leg room (and no-one in front moving constantly during the flight and disturbing your drink/meal) you have to agree to be the one to open the emergency door if you have crashed, which seems an excellent trade. Curiously you need to be able to speak English to sit in these (or maybe the native language of the flight) but not sure why that is relevant. A big red arrow showing either a clockwise or an anti-clockwise turn doesn't really need a label does it?!
• Or try to swing Business Class!

• Budget airlines are cheap for a reason. The food/drink/service/entertainment is shoddy because you basically haven't paid for it - prepare for this and stock up with whatever you can before hand or you will be crying when you have to pay £4 for 10 Pringles and a slightly moist Mars bar.

• Always look as if you know where you are going when you are in a city that is new to you. You can still consult a map (although preferably not every 2 seconds) and still look at road/street signs, but don't walk around gormlessly looking confused. I suppose there is nothing wrong with this, you just look very, very silly.

• Don't fall into the (generally) British trap of speaking loudly and slowly at a foreign person without checking if they speak English first. It always helps to learn a bit of the language for where you are going - the most important phrase to learn however is "I'm sorry - I only speak a little <insert language here>, do you speak English?" because I can guarantee that whatever little you manage to learn will be woefully inadequate if the response comes back in the native language.

• Do your research. Don't turn up in a city on one of its holidays or in the middle of a festival/carnival without planning it. I mistakenly did this in Budapest (I think) once, I arrived on a Tuesday into the main train station and asked when the next bus to my hotel was. Friday was the helpful response, same for the trams and trains. About £50 later my 3 mile taxi journey was complete.

• When camping, don't camp on an ants nest. They get really arsey and have been known to break into your tent to voice their displeasure.

• Also, your tent probably isn't waterproof - but you won't find out until it rains. If it is waterproof, don't leave it unzipped. 

Till tomorrow, Tom

Day 34 - Getting in the spirit

So one of the huge things down in this part of the world is Mardi Gras. Traditionally it is a carnival running from Epiphany (6th January) until Shrove Tuesday (or, Fat Tuesday if you take the literal translation of Mardi Gras from French). The centre of the Mardi Gras world is New Orleans, but Baton Rouge gets in on the act pretty well too.

There is way too much history and things going on for me to go through it in detail, but suffice to say it is a world renowned phenomenon - and one I was lucky to get a tiny taste of tonight. One of the guys from work invited me to come down and watch tonight's parade (there are 8-10 of the course of the last few weeks running up to Mardi Gras) and take in a bit off the atmosphere beforehand. 

Muffuletta

We hit up a place right in downtown called Jolie Pearl for some pre-parade baked oysters (with bacon and brie) and a muffuletta, which did the job magnificently. I also managed to grab a frozen White Russian on the way in as well so it was a good Friday night all round!

After the food we found a spot on the road for the parade to come through. One of the big things about these parades is the "throws" that are distributed from the various floats. These are often strings of multi-coloured beads and other assorted little trinkets but (as my head can attest) heavier things can be thrown too and a swivel-head is needed. The slight blemish on my forehead was caused by me spotting an incoming frisbee a touch too late.

But it was so much fun. The atmosphere at this one was pretty chilled as it is quite a small one in the grand scheme of things. Still, 25-20 floats came past and it took a good hour for the whole thing to get through. It was a great way to start off the weekend and my first real experience of Baton Rouge in the evening as the week winds down. 

I've no real plans for Saturday/Sunday so will see what they bring. But whatever happens I have next week's big Saturday parade in the diary. It is supposed to be a bit more risqué so will definitely need my head on a double-swivel this time! Who knows what might be coming!

The Bling and the Bang

Till tomorrow,

Tom

Day 9 - Brisket, Boots and Brie

Today found myself, John and Jeff over in Baytown on site for a couple of meetings. Baytown, as mentioned oprveiously, is a bit functional. But the area around the Cedar Bayou facility has some hidden gems, you just have to know where to look. Those of you following my blog will know I have a knack for finding cool places to eat that might not seem apparent at first glance!

The very first time I ever went to the Chevron Phillips plant nearly 5 years ago I was taken to a typical Texas roadside BBQ place. And I finally managed to make it back again this lunchtime with the guys. Unfortunately I deleted the photo but the brisket and sausage at Tony's BBQ and Steakhouse in Mont Belvieu (no website) is quality all the way. And the chicken John attempted to devour was about as tender as I've ever seen. Coming in at about $14/15 for two meats, two sides and a drink this is an absolute bargain in every sense.

UPDATE: Found the food picture!

Another Texas tradition we thought we'd hit on John's last day (and Jeff's penultimate) was Cavender's (here), one of the local boot and western wear shop. For us aspiring cowboys this place is a nirvana: boots as far as the eye can see, belts, hats, shirts, pants everything you can think of. 

Thought I'd treat myself a little bit in the spirit of the "just say yes year" and so I'm now the owner of not one but two delightful pairs of damn comfy boots. Just keep an eye on future blogs for their debut performances!!

To finish the Triple B in B(aytown) we managed to find ourselves a might fine pair of cheese platters in the Hilton Garden Inn hotel. 

Featuring figs, honey, garlic bread, apricots, fig jam and berries (as well as the obvious cheeses) this was a culinary delight. 

Seriously tasty from start to finish and well worth me hanging around in Baytown another 3-4 hours for. 

Following that it was back in the Mustang and home. Jeff and John are heading back to the UK in the next few days so I'm back to being a solo Brit in the South. The gym is calling, the healthy cookbooks are singing to me - and the real adventure begins now!

Till tomorrow,

Tom

Day 6 - Sausages to end the first week

So it turns out I need to start making a better job of writing my blog before I go do something in the evening. It's now nearly midday if Day 7, but here is Day 6.

Friday has finally arrived and that means the weekend is on the doorstop. It's also Jeff and John's last night in town so decided to make a night of it. Started off with what John unfortunately referred to as a "sausage-fest", but he was at least half right.

Moon Tower Inn Cookshack and Sudworks (here) does an amazing line in gourmet hot dogs and beer brewed round the back of the outdoor shack. 

It is a great little place maybe 5-10 minutes cab away from north downtown and well worth exploring. 

The one shown here is Elk with Bacon and Cheese. Other delights include Pheasant and Cognac, Buffalo with Chipotle, Rabbit, Duck, Lamb. Absolutely top quality fare, down-to-earth and rustic.

Houston is a city of distinct districts and pockets. We spend a lot of our time at the south of end of Downtown in the business district, where there isn't much in the way of bars/restaurants for evening entertainment. There is a bit in Midtown but it's definitely more of a studenty type vibe with outside bars rather than the classic bar you'd see in, for example, Spinningfields or the Northern Quarter.

So we headed up to the North part of Downtown and checked out a couple of places that tick the more traditional bar model. Admittedly we got there a little on the early side (Houston doesn't really get going till gone midnight) but the vibe and the scene down there is definitely worth going. 

Okra Charity Saloon (here) is a great concept. All profits go to various charities around Houston (a different one a month to a total of around $1.3m in 7 years). There is a constantly rotating beer selection (but nowhere near the choices of places like Woodrow's and Pub Fiction) and the food is pretty good too. The homemade cookies with milk are to die for, but we steered clear this time. The other place we hit was Bovine and Barley (here). Good beer selection and the wine was well received by Jeff.

Houston really is a great place to go out in, provided you keep in the right areas. There are plenty of people if you time it right, but it never feels overcrowded. I haven't seen any hint of trouble, everyone is beyond friendly and the atmosphere buzzes. 

And there are plenty more places to try before my year is over!
Till tomorrow, Tom

Day 5 - A bit of reminiscing

Strange day today. Realised when I was sat in work that the last time I sported the suit, shirt and tie combination I had on was my mum's funeral, nearly two years ago. It also dawned on my at the time that this was the first major life-altering period I've been through without her. So that brought plenty back.

It got me thinking about the future, and how we should embrace it. My mum was too young when she died, just around the time my dad finally retired and they seemed to have everything all set up. Life is shit like that sometimes. But it also presents you with opportunities, even in the dark times.

It gives you a wake-up call and the opportunity to take stock of your life and work out what is important to you. It gives you the opportunity to make positive decisions and consciously be a positive force. Dwelling on what might have happened is unproductive, but remembering the good times and promising yourself that you'll make good memories moving forward can be constructive. 

For me the sad part is that (at almost the drop of a hat) you can lose the ability to continue to make memories with the people you love. 

So take advantage and go make those memories today. Don't put something off waiting for the right time, turn the situation into the right time. We all have the ability to influence our surroundings and our mentality if nothing else. Be positive, be amazing and be in control of your own opportunities. 

With that out of the way I'll revert back more mundane and fun topics. We finally managed to find Jeff some red velvet cake - and it was demolished at a rate of knots! 

He's been after some for a while and finally we found one that looked worth the hassle. And it was. I had a sneaky bit. This came after we managed to put away a good 1 1/2 16" pizzas between three of us from the excellent Russo's in Midtown (here).

So the healthy living is struggling a touch! I've stabilised the next few days but once I get to BR it'll all be good. 

That's it from me. Hope you have a fantastic Friday and I'll catch you tomorrow.
Till then, Tom

Day 3 - A few places to try

So today was the first day when I felt vaguely human in the morning. 3 days is about right for getting over jet lag for me these days. 

Today turned into one of those unexpected "energy" days where you feel like you can conquer the world. I've not had many of them over the last few years but I did today, and hopefully it is the sign of things to come,. It did start early doors due to the time difference to back home and the need to have a few meetings. The pic below shows the office at about 0650, just ready to get the day going.

View from KBR Tower @ far too early o'clock

One of the things I promised myself I'd do on this blog was extol the virtues of Houston and Baton Rouge. I've only spent limited time in BR but Houston has been my on and off home for a while. As a result I have managed to find a few great spots for eats and drinks - and I managed to drag two of my colleagues along.

First along is the Brass Tap in Midtown (https://www.brasstapbeerbar.com/) which was doing amazing, happy-hour, tacos and a cracking beer selection. The music choice wasn't great but the rest of it made top for it. Check out there site above for happy hour deals and get yourself down there. It'll be even better in the summer when the weather is that bit warmer.

Korean Pork BBQ Taco <- Lush

And right across from the Brass Tap on the same intersection is Holman's Draft Hall (https://www.facebook.com/HolmanDraftHall/) . It was quiet tonight but the vibe is always chilled in this converted storage warehouse. Great beer selection and the food is pretty damn tasty too (though we didn't eat here). The salads and sandwiches are excellent from past experience.

Holman's Beer Hall

Think that's all for now. Good luck for hump day and I'll see you again soon.

Till tomorrow, Tom

Day 2 - Making Plans

Day 2 back in the big city. Managed to get a reasonable amount of sleep until the train reared its ugly head (see videos below). Weight now down to 15st 10lb so trending in the right direction.

One of the big things I've been committing myself to this year is to restart my challenge events, and the first one is ready to go. February 8th, so 26 days from today I'll be doing the Mardi Gras Mambo 10km in Baton Rouge (https://runmambo.com). I'm hoping this will be the first of many this year - in fact I'm targeting one a month - but I need your help.

What do you think I should do? Is there anything you did that you think I should experience, or anything you wish you had dnone and want me too do on your behalf. I'm thinking all kinds of races (regular, OCR etc.) as well as unique challenges and one general adrenaline stuff.

Obviously it needs to be relatively affordable but the wackier the better if I can find a way to make it happen. So hit me up with your thoughts and let's get the calendar full with amazing experiences an memories. And if you want to join in, and can afford it, then the more the merrier I say.

Once I've managed to set something up these challenges will all be to raise money for the incomparable Christie Hospital (https://www.christie.nhs.uk) who provide an unbelievable service in one ion the most heart-wrenching environments. These people are simply staggering in what they do and the world needs to support them in any way it can.

That's all for today. Its only about 1:30pm here but this afternoon is likely to consist of work, the gym and maybe a beer. Oh and I'm making satay prawns tonight so keep an eye in Instagram, Twitter and Facebook for the recipe (which I'll also bob on the blog later if it is any good) - as well as all the other photos from my adventure.

Till tomorrow, Tom

Day 1 - Howdy H'Town

First day back in Houston.

Weight 15st 12lb. 

Back in the familiar environment of the noise of downtown where they seemingly like to move their trains only under the cover of night! However jet lag has already grabbed me at around 3am and doesn't seem overly inclined to let me go. Standard occurrence really but I thought I'd got the hang of it by now.

However, as part of my new plan to spend more time doing things and less time thinking about doing things a quick 4am gym session seems just what the doctor (not me, a real one) would order. 

Nothing like having the gym all to oneself, despite the minor annoyance of the lights going off halfway through. 

Sitting on a bike (and riding obviously before any smartarses shout up) apparently isn't quite enough to establish light and so the final half of the session is done in almost complete darkness.


Back for a quick shower and then I managed to catch the first sunrise of my American adventure.

Cameras never do enough justice to the view but it is actually quite beautiful as far as sunrise in a city go. There is something about the anticipation of waiting for what the day is going to bring that makes the first rays of the day quite relaxing, and something I plan to see more of this year.

Obviously it is not a patch on being out in the countryside or somewhere more remote but all things considered I think this is a positive omen to start things off.

Tomorrow it is back to the project grind, but after nearly five years it feels like we are approaching the endgame of it. It's been hard but ultimately rewarding. The work-life balance is even more important when you are away from home, and a big part of that is finding yourself exciting things to do. 

I'm fortunate in that I really do love my job, but this year is all about making sure I love what I do outside of work as well. The only question is where to start! :-)

Till tomorrow, Tom

Day 0 - An Adventure Begins

So after nearly a year with absolutely zero in the way of blogging I'd decided to have yet another rebrand! Seemingly this is a regular occurrence.

This time however I hope that I am going to actually post something, because I have a genuine motivation for this. I'm the luckiest guy in the entire world because I get to be the daddy to the most amazing daughter in the world, Katie. And a big part of this blog will help me keep in touch with her (and show her what I'm up to) from over 3000 miles away.

I'm lucky enough to travel with work, and as a result I'm relocating to Baton Rouge for a year as part of a new assignment. I've spent a bit of time in Houston over the last 4-5 years on a separate project, but this is different. This is a proper relocation complete with apartment, car and visa!

Part of being able to travel with work is being given a golden opportunity to try things I would never have been able to. 

Me and the Monkey

I turn 40 this year and Katie's mum and I recently agreed to end our engagement. We are still going to be friends and raise Katie as mummy and daddy, but nevertheless this constitutes a seismic change in my life. All the plans that were starting to mature are gone, and new plans are needed to fill the spaces that now exist.

I've also had a chance to look back on the last few years and realise I am neither the person I used to be, nor the one that I wish to be. I became so scared about the future and losing what I had, that I forgot to live in the moment and cherish what was there. I've already lost so much as a result, and with my mum dying ahead of her time a few years ago this mortality has been brought into sharper relief.

Enjoying the Business Class

So 2020 marks a change, a reversion to where I was 3-4 years or so ago. I'm going to be saying "yes" to things, instead of finding reasons to say no. I'm restarting my challenges, whilst trying to raise as much money for the fabulous Christie hospital in Manchester who supported mum unwaveringly. I'm also going to get as fit as I've been in years and tick so many things off my bucket list that I should have done with others when I had the chance.

Along the way I want to show you Houston and Baton Rouge, and dispel some of the myths people who aren't from this part of the world have. The people, places, cuisine and culture are amazing - I hope this comes through from my blog. So this is Day 0 and I'm writing this from 37,000 ft as I cross the Atlantic for the next (but by no means last) great adventure.I hope you come along for the ride, and enjoy it. 

Till tomorrow, Tom

64º North

Situated between 63ºN and 67ºN lies the world’s Northernmost sovereign capital city – Reykjavik. Home to a mere 120,000 people (about the same as Bridgetown, Barbados) this is not your typical bustling metropolis.

Although tourism is becoming increasingly significant in the country (and with it the associated construction boom) Iceland is still essentially a fish-driven economy. You won’t find towering skyscrapers or 24 hour metro systems here – but what you will find is a city of charm, history and great food.

Iceland is a unique European country, essentially isolated for years until its strategic importance towards the end of World War 2 led to the US building the main airport at Keflavik. This made it easier to get to and from Iceland and from there we have arrived where we are today. It still feels like a lot of catching up needs to be done, and is being done, to bring Iceland into the 21^st Century.

In some respects though there are a lot of Icelandic qualities that we should be striving for ourselves; 99% of their power comes from Geothermal or Hydroelectric sources and nothing is wasted. The steam that drives the turbines will end up being used for your daily shower (complete with aroma of sulphur!) while the only litter we saw on the trip came from lazy tourists.

With only 330,000 people in the country there is still a real sense of community here too – everything is done for the benefit of the masses and the Icelanders have a real sense of pride in what they believe is the fairest democracy on the planet.

Reykjavik itself is relatively small, nestled on the bay and winding its way slowly up towards the geothermal spas that are now mostly redundant. There are a couple of decent museums (the Maritime Museum is a must for those with an interest in fishing and history) but essentially you can probably walk around the main tourist area it in a day.

Downtown Reykjavik from the cathedral

However, there are a few things slightly out of the centre that might be worth your attention (particularly in the summer months). The Pearl observation deck and Botanical Gardens are two that spring to mind as being “on our list for next time”.

When judging most capital cities I tend to stay with the confines of the city rather than stray out – but in this case I think it is difficult to look at Reykjavik without considering what is easily within your reach from the city centre base.

No doubt tourism has exploded in the last 5 to 10 years. There are endless companies offering endless different tours – from a few hours up to a full week in a cabin. We managed to get ourselves onto two of the most popular day tours – the Golden Circle and the South Shore.

I don’t want to go into too much detail as to what was on the tours – other than to say that they are both definitely worth it. The scenery on both is stunning but interestingly varied, it’s definitely not a case of doing the same thing twice at two different parts of the island.

The Golden Circle takes in gorgeous waterfalls, the geothermal geysers at Geysir (including the fourth biggest in the world which erupts every 5 minutes or so) and some stunning rift valley scenery with views to die for. The South Shore is longer but you encounter glaciers, more waterfalls, volcanoes, black sand beaches and a really nice little folk museum on the way.

Waterfall at Faxi

One thing I would recommend is to go with a slightly smaller tour company that does tours of maybe 10-15 people. There is a lot to get round and if you are waiting at every stop while the guide rounds up 50-60 people then it can get a bit draining and tiring.

Glacier at Myrdalsjokull

We didn’t manage to get to see the Northern Lights or go to the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa for various reasons but that just gives us more reason to come back again! That and the stunning varied scenery which I can’t wait to see in summer!

After a long day sight-seeing the last thing you want is to struggle for food options. Thankfully Reykjavik is one of the greatest food cities I have ever been in – though you do pay for the privilege. A typical 3 course meal at a good restaurant with a bottle of wine is £100 for two people, and there don’t appear to be any real budget options either!

But the food is stunning. You can expect local fish and meat all cooked to absolute perfection. Over the course of the week we had (between us) Icelandic lamb, horse tenderloin, roasted duck, lobster, pork belly, shrimp risotto, octopus, squid, rotten shark (not as bad as it sounds, though not everyone would agree!), tuna and more that I can’t even remember.

Every single dish was cooked perfectly and I challenge anyone not to fall in love with the food. They cook it their way (none of this “how would you like it cooked”? malarkey) and I’ve not eaten so well in a long, long time. If I was to recommend anything I’d say to check out the lamb and the horse (yes horse!). I haven’t seen two dishes cooked as well for a while, stunning.

Reykjavik feels like a city of two halves though – if you’ll allow me to explain. Daytime is tour guides and tourists (the majority of whom where certainly late 30s and above) whilst at night time the locals come out to play. They play hard, fast and not cheaply mind!

The city’s nightlife is growing very fast and you can find trendy bars (cocktail bars are a particular “new scene”) mingled in with local microbreweries and late night cafes where you can pick up a slab of cake and a hot drink to warm the fingers up.

Most Icelanders don’t come out to drink until gone midnight (preferring home drinking at cheaper prices) but most clubs are open until the wee hours of the morning. I suspect in summer the only two hours a night of darkness are spent drinking in a club somewhere.

Overall

Reykjavik has long been on my list of must-see capitals and it didn’t disappoint. While the city itself is small, it is growing and evolving into a modern capital without losing too much of the charm which draws people here in the first place.

The food and nightlife is fantastic (but expensive) and the abundant options for exploring the island make this a very good destination for a week or so. We’ll definitely be returning again in the summer months as it is supposed to be a completely different city then and different options open themselves up.

I’m not sure I’d recommend a city break here simply as there isn’t much to do in the city for more than a day and a couple of days isn’t enough to get out and explore properly. It’s not that it is a bad place for a weekend, just that it isn’t cheap to get there and I feel you wouldn’t get the value for money over a weekend compared to a Lisbon, London or Budapest for example.

Verdict: 4.5 stars out of 5

Small city itself but plenty to do on the island with the stunning sights and scenery. Fantastic food and drink and lovely people. Definitely should be on everybody's must-see list, and we'll be back for more.

Till next time,

DT

REVIEW: Neither here nor there by Bill Bryson

Travelling has always fascinated me, ever since I was young. Being born and growing up abroad will do that to you – it gives you a greater sense of awareness of the size and scale of the world. I didn’t return to the UK to live permanently until I was nearly 7, and by this time I had already seen the USA, Australia, Far East, Europe, The Pacific and South East Asia. That kind of travelling at a young age almost always a great desire to do more as you get older.

One thing I love almost as much as travelling is reading about other people’s travels. I love reading and hearing other people’s opinions of places I’ve been to – but I also love seeing new places and different takes on things. Not everyone travels for the same reason and hence not everyone experiences the same things at the same places. This variety has always held an interest for me.

Bill Bryson is one of my favourite travel writers for a number of reasons.

I love his style of travelling first and foremost. I’m very much what I would call a “big ticket planner”. I like to have the big items like travel and accommodation sorted in advance. Part of this is due to the fact that, whilst I’m not exactly travelling on a shoestring, I don’t usually have the funds or time to risk pitching up somewhere and not being able to find anything except a £200pn room and a £1000 flight home!! I am then a bit freer to explore the sights of somewhere, safe in the knowledge I know where I am sleeping and where I’ll be heading next.

Bryson doesn’t do this. He has a vague plan but he travels very much by the seat of his pants. Or seems to at least. Neither here nor there was written in the early 1990s and since then there has been an explosion of backpacking and the like, maybe that was the way people travelled back then and it simply doesn’t happen that much anymore.

Regardless, his travel style allows him to see so much more than the sights of a place – he can really get under the skin and understand how places tick. The culture and the traditions of a place are often even more fascinating than towering domes, huge gorges or architectural masterpieces.

This comes across in his writing style too. I find my travel reviews tend to be very factual when I read them back, Bryson’s ebb and flow and give you a real sense of what it was like being there – not just a list of what to do and not to do. It is, I think, a difficult skill to master and one I admire greatly and strive to emulate.

Neither here nor there follows Bryson as he recreates (in his 40s) a journey he made when he first arrived in Europe some twenty to thirty years previously. From the north of Sweden down through Europe to Istanbul he follows his nose as he makes his way around the diverse continent.

Part of the interest in this book is seeing how the different parts of the continent have evolved at different speeds. This book is probably 25 years old and yet, for example, Florence sounds pretty similar to how I remember it (though I enjoyed it more than Bryson evidently did)! Yet other places are unrecognisable compared to what they are now like.

The way Bryson shifts through the varying landscape, people, languages and cultures is very symptomatic of how Europe used to be. The Eurozone has, to some extent, created much more uniformity throughout the continent – yet this book harks back to the “good old days” of having to change currencies every time you crossed a border and having a passport full of stamps.

Maybe that is some of the appeal of this book, a bygone era unsaturated with the internet where if you wanted to see a place you had to go and see it. Nowadays you can drop a little man into a street and see exactly what the front door of your hotel looks like whereas 25 years ago you might turn up in a city and have no idea which country even you were in.

The end result, for me, is a joy. From the many anecdotes, some good and some bad, through some more sombre political and socio-economic commentaries this book has everything a good travel book should have. And by that I don’t mean a Rough Guide or a Lonely Planet (which have their merits I’ll grant you).

I mean a REAL travel book, a book actually about travelling the world and seeing the many sights and sounds it has to offer. Bryson does this better than anyone and, 25 years on, this is still funny, insightful, relevant and interesting. I can’t give much higher praise.

Verdict: Everything a travel book should be about. 5 stars of out 5

Till next time,

DT

Riga - Still finding its identity

Starting to crack through the capital cities as we come to the end of the year. 

Following hard on the heels of Ljubljana and Zagreb we have the European Capital of Culture for 2014 - Latvia's capital, Riga. Accompanied by my brother-in-law and our friend we had this one planned from a good 10 months out!

Wedged in between the might of Russia to the East and the Baltic Sea to the West, Latvia has technically been an independent country since 1918. Like so many of the other former Soviet states however it was forcibly incorporated into the USSR and spent the vast majority of the second half of the 20th Century fighting for independence and freedom. 

Since achieving independence in mid-1990, Latvia has gradually been growing in influence in Europe, culminating in EU membership in 2004 and Eurozone membership at the turn of the year. 

Riga's history is certainly captured in its cosmopolitan style, particular its architecture. There is an imposing 13th Century Church (St. Peter's) which incorporates Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque styles as well as evidence of Russian influence in the orthodox cathedral situated just outside the Old Town. 

The Old Town itself is a UNESCO heritage site and it is your typical arrangement of tight cobbled streets, wide open meeting points and quaint little shops and stalls. I have to be honest though and say that it is missing the charm of Tallinn or the maturity of Budapest, other cities which have a similar feel to them. 

Riga feels exactly what it is, a city in transition. Only 11 months have elapsed since the Euro was adopted as the currency and the city still feels like it is feeling its way in. The days of 50p a pint are long gone and the additional influx of EU money is starting to bear fruit, certainly on the North side of the river. 

Construction is continuing apace, though the Old Town is careful to try and retain its charms against the onslaught of change. This is still essentially a poor country, with poor people - but gradually (very gradually) the money is starting to permeate down. 

As a tourist destination Riga is a strange one, certainly not what I was expecting. There is not really that much to do outside of look at nice architecture and have a few beers (which might be all you are after). Comparing again with Tallinn, Riga seems empty. There are few museums or sights to really grab your imagination and there isn't much to hold you in the Old Town past a day or so. We found ourselves exploring deeper into the "working city" than I think we expected.

One of these explorations did find us an excellent microbrewery (called, I think, Alus Muiza) located on Gertrudes Iela. Well worth a trip up there, shame I can't remember exactly where it is!! Closer to the centre of town you will not struggle for drinking establishments, though the proliferation of Irish and English "pubs" probably tells you the client base being aimed at. Kiwi Bar is well worth a trip if you are a sports fan, though the beer isn't great. 

However the 14 taster beers for €10 at the Australian Backpackers Pub (near the Wellton Centrum Hotel) is absolutely worth making the trip for, just be careful with the last few as they are a touch sweet! 

Outside of bars and pubs there are plenty of restaurants to take your fancy. The food is not cheap, but neither is it ridicuolously expensive - provided you pick your eating spots well. With the possible exception of Street Burger, I'd stay away from any "chain" type eateries, we had a pretty average pizza in Charlie's and didn't make the same mistsake twice. Try to keep an eye out for local restaurants and always go for the Latvia specialities, everyone is better at making their local food!

So overall Riga wasn't quite what I expected. It wasn't bad at all, the food and drink were still pretty good and there was enough to see. We were here for four days though and that was probably double the length of time we needed. Maybe if I was travelling on my own I would have sought out more of the cultural aspects but for the three of us, beer and food was the order of the day.

I'm not sure I'd return here again, there are plenty of places to get to first and while I enjoyed myseld immensely (the company was fantastic) it didn't inspire in the way other cities have done.

Verdict: 4 stars out of 5

Till next time, 

DT

Ljubljana - Living up to Expectations

I'm rubbish at this whole blogging thing recently. 
I'll get better, probably. 

Anyway, for now here is the second part of my Mid-European Capital Trip (only about 1 month after I actually went!). Full review will follow on my TravelPod blog when I get my backside into gear and do it.

Capital #18 - LJUBLJANA

Fresh from my trip to Zagreb I bordered a very quiet looking and clean train to head over into one of the other capitals re-established following the break-up of Yugoslavia in the 1990s – Ljubljana.

The train journey itself is very picturesque, following the River Sava all the way from leaving Zagreb to pulling into the Slovenian capital. It was very peaceful and relaxing, and not a bad way at all to enter one of the cities that I have been really looking forward to seeing.

And it didn’t disappoint one bit. I thought Zagreb was nice but I’m glad I didn’t give it 5 stars as Ljubljana blew it out of the water. From the cobbled streets of the Old Town, the imposing figure of the Castle perched on the hillside and the numerous cafés, bars and restaurants which blanket the riverside – this was stunning.

You can cover most of the “things to do” in Ljubljana in a day with relative ease. Ljubljana Castle is well worth a look (though more for the views than anything else) and there are a few very good museums such as the City Museum which will hold your attention for a good few hours if you are that way inclined. But this is no Lisbon, Budapest or Copenhagen in terms of things to do, it is more the setting and the ambience of the place which is the charm.

I’ve never been to Paris but elements of this sound positively Parisian. I think I could spend a month here and never run out of places to eat, drink, enjoy a book or just watch the world go by. The river meanders its way through the centre of the city and the gentle flowing of the water brings a sense of serenity and peace which is rare in cities these days, never mind capitals.

Most of the cities I love have many things to bring me back; the baths of Budapest, the museums of London, the cafes of Lisbon etc.. Ljubljana is different but still magical. I can see myself returning time and time again – simply to do nothing and watch the world go by.

Verdict: 5 stars out of 5

Next on the Capital Tour is the (apparently delightful) Riga in a few weeks. This will be a slightly different trip as I’m joined by my brother-in-law (who I ticked Dublin off with many, many years ago) and our friend (who was my Oslo companion). Expect plenty of drinks, some good food and a wee bit of banter.

Till next time,

DT 

Zagreb - An unexpected gem

I've decided to do my travel reviews slightly differently from now on. I'll do a very quick summary review on here, with a more in-depth one hosted at my TravelPod blog when I get around to doing it sometime next week. Probably. Depends on how busy I am.

ZAGREB

Wow, what a fantastic place. I'm not sure exactly what I was expecting from Zagreb if I'm honest, but it has definitely impressed. I was slightly nervous before coming here, although I can't really put my finger on why.

Was is someone to do with the situation that is the first of the old Yugoslav capitals I've been to? Or the fact that it lags behind Dubrovnik, the islands and Lake Plitivice on the "list" of good Croatian places to go? Maybe it was simply an unfair stereotype on my behalf; sub-consciously unsure of this part of the world because of it's recent history? Who knows? All I can say is that I'm glad I did put that nervousness aside, because Zagreb has been a real unexpected bonus.

Sitting between Valencia and Krakow on the "population list" of European Cities, Zagreb is by no means a big place. You can walk around what I will call the "culturally" interesting bits of it comfortably in a day - and I have had no need to utilise the seemingly excellent public transport system. But there is still plenty here to keep you entertained.

The older districts of Gradec and Kaptol make up the fascinating Upper Town; an amalgamation of the old (ruins, churches, medieval fortifications), the traditional (the daily fruit and veg market at Dolac Square) and the new (the pedestrianised Tkalčićeva Street with its thriving daytime coffee shops and bustling, relaxed nightlife). A wander through here at any time of day will yield something of note, whilst in the evenings it really feels like the place to be.

Moving down in the Lower Town brings abundant grandiose buildings (such as the Art Pavilion and Croatian National Theatre) as well as beautiful open spaces and more meeting places and coffee shops than you can shake a stick at. You can spend the day shopping, eating, drinking and exploring - and it is all within a tight radius that somehow still manages to feel big enough.

For the more culturally minded there is plenty to entertain you with an excellent selection of museums (City Museum, Archaeology Museum and others) as well as many other reminders of the long and colourful past the city has been through.

Gastronomically Zagreb is one of the best places I have been too; offering fantastic local food, drink and snacks at what will seem ridiculous prices. A full 3-course meal included 3 glasses of matched wine, homemade breads, a coffee and an aperitif in the 4th ranked restaurant in town still struggled to remove me of £30! As always, do what the locals do and you can't go far wrong.

Tomorrow is Independence Day here in Croatia and it is a reminder that Croatia in it's current guise is less than 25 years old. At this rate Zagreb will very quickly grow and be noticed more and more by the usual Western European cliches of stag-do groups and budget airline companies. So get here fast while it is still a relatively undiscovered treasure.

I make my departure for Ljubljana, another "new" capital relatively speaking. If it is anywhere near as good as Zagreb I am in for a real treat.

Verdict: 4.5 stars out of 5

I've added ratings to all of the capitals I've been to so far on the sidebar to the left of this post. I may yet uprate Zagreb to a 5, but I'm not sure there is enough to keep me coming back time and time again. Only 3 capitals have got a 5 so far (though there a few that have recently been downgraded and may find their way back up again).

Do sljedećeg puta,
DT