ZAGREB
Wow, what a fantastic place. I'm not sure exactly what I was expecting from Zagreb if I'm honest, but it has definitely impressed. I was slightly nervous before coming here, although I can't really put my finger on why.
Was is someone to do with the situation that is the first of the old Yugoslav capitals I've been to? Or the fact that it lags behind Dubrovnik, the islands and Lake Plitivice on the "list" of good Croatian places to go? Maybe it was simply an unfair stereotype on my behalf; sub-consciously unsure of this part of the world because of it's recent history? Who knows? All I can say is that I'm glad I did put that nervousness aside, because Zagreb has been a real unexpected bonus.
Sitting between Valencia and Krakow on the "population list" of European Cities, Zagreb is by no means a big place. You can walk around what I will call the "culturally" interesting bits of it comfortably in a day - and I have had no need to utilise the seemingly excellent public transport system. But there is still plenty here to keep you entertained.
The older districts of Gradec and Kaptol make up the fascinating Upper Town; an amalgamation of the old (ruins, churches, medieval fortifications), the traditional (the daily fruit and veg market at Dolac Square) and the new (the pedestrianised Tkalčićeva Street with its thriving daytime coffee shops and bustling, relaxed nightlife). A wander through here at any time of day will yield something of note, whilst in the evenings it really feels like the place to be.
Moving down in the Lower Town brings abundant grandiose buildings (such as the Art Pavilion and Croatian National Theatre) as well as beautiful open spaces and more meeting places and coffee shops than you can shake a stick at. You can spend the day shopping, eating, drinking and exploring - and it is all within a tight radius that somehow still manages to feel big enough.
For the more culturally minded there is plenty to entertain you with an excellent selection of museums (City Museum, Archaeology Museum and others) as well as many other reminders of the long and colourful past the city has been through.
Gastronomically Zagreb is one of the best places I have been too; offering fantastic local food, drink and snacks at what will seem ridiculous prices. A full 3-course meal included 3 glasses of matched wine, homemade breads, a coffee and an aperitif in the 4th ranked restaurant in town still struggled to remove me of £30! As always, do what the locals do and you can't go far wrong.
Tomorrow is Independence Day here in Croatia and it is a reminder that Croatia in it's current guise is less than 25 years old. At this rate Zagreb will very quickly grow and be noticed more and more by the usual Western European cliches of stag-do groups and budget airline companies. So get here fast while it is still a relatively undiscovered treasure.
I make my departure for Ljubljana, another "new" capital relatively speaking. If it is anywhere near as good as Zagreb I am in for a real treat.
Verdict: 4.5 stars out of 5
I've added ratings to all of the capitals I've been to so far on the sidebar to the left of this post. I may yet uprate Zagreb to a 5, but I'm not sure there is enough to keep me coming back time and time again. Only 3 capitals have got a 5 so far (though there a few that have recently been downgraded and may find their way back up again).
Do sljedećeg puta,
DT
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